Tasting Notes
Burak Özdemir, known online as CZN Burak, built an audience with videos of oversized dishes served with a broad smile. His Etiler restaurant on Nispetiye Avenue turns that style into a full menu. The food comes from Hatay, the chef's home region on the Syrian border, where Turkish, Arab and Mediterranean cooking meet. Portions are large and several dishes are finished at the table, so it works best with a group.
The specials
The section to order from is the specials. Perde pilavı is rice with chicken, almonds and currants baked inside a thin pastry dome, cut open at the table. Sarmalı kaburga is lamb rib, and Chef Burak Güveç is a clay-pot dish of lamb and vegetables. The Chef Burak Karışık Kebap brings several grilled meats together on one platter. Lamb shoulder, slow-roasted lamb, stuffed lamb ribs and Didem Anne's mixed dolma, named after the chef's mother, are also on the list.
Hatay starters and künefe
Before the mains there are Hatay-style cold mezes — hummus, mütebbel (smoky aubergine with tahini), muhammara, kısır and haydari — and hot starters such as hummus topped with pastırma or minced meat, fried içli köfte and ekşili kaşık köfte. The classic finish is künefe, shredded pastry baked around melting cheese and soaked in syrup; a pistachio version is also offered.
“Come with a group, share perde pilavı and the mixed kebab platter, and leave room for a hot künefe at the end.”
LR Kitchen — field note