Tasting Notes
Hafız Mustafa is an Istanbul confectioner of traditional sweets. The business dates its origins to 1864 in Bahçekapı, Eminönü, and now runs several shops in the city; this one is on Muradiye Street in Sirkeci, close to the railway station. It works as both a shop and a café: you can buy boxes to take away or sit down with tea and a plate of dessert.
Baklava, kadayıf and milk puddings
The baklava list is long, with pistachio and walnut versions of most shapes: classic layered baklava, square, rolled (dürüm), saray sarma and şöbiyet. Kadayıf comes as burma, rolled shredded pastry, and as Ottoman-style saray kadayıfı, and künefe is served hot. The milk puddings are worth a look: fırın sütlaç, a baked rice pudding, kazandibi with its caramelised base, keşkül with almonds, and tavukgöğsü, a sweet pudding that really does contain finely shredded chicken breast.
Turkish delight and coffee
Lokum is sold by the kilo, from plain and rose to double-roasted pistachio and fitil varieties, and is an easy gift to carry home. To drink there is Turkish coffee, including a version with mastic (damla sakızı), Ottoman coffee, salep and tea by the glass. Seasonal sweets such as güllaç appear during Ramadan, and quince and pumpkin desserts in winter.
“Sit down with a glass of tea and order a portion of pistachio baklava or fırın sütlaç; buy lokum by the kilo on the way out.”
LR Kitchen — field note