Tasting Notes
Kelebek is at Kemal Köker Caddesi 67/A in the Alleben quarter of Şahinbey. It opens at 5 a.m. and closes at 1 a.m.; beyran is traditionally a morning dish in Gaziantep.
Beyran and the paça soups
The soup list is the core of the menu. Beyran is boiled lamb and rice in marrow-bone broth with kidney fat and garlic. Next to it are Antep paça, siyah paça made with lamb cheek, ayak paça from the trotters, kelle paça from the head, plain et paça, and az beyran, a smaller bowl. Lentil soup and ezogelin are also listed. The kavurma dishes are made from mumbar (stuffed lamb intestine), brain, tongue, meat or head meat.
Kebabs and wraps
Kebabs run from Adana and Urfa to Maraş kebab, ali nazik with diced or minced lamb, domatesli kebap, aubergine and mushroom kebabs, liver, simit kebap and sebzeli kebap, with chicken wings and şiş. Mixed kebab is served for 1.5 to 6 people, with contents chosen from the list, and most kebabs are also made as dürüm wraps.
“Start the day with a bowl of beyran, and come back at lunch or in the evening for a kebab in a dürüm wrap.”
LR Kitchen — field note