Tasting Notes
Hışvahan, also known as the Lala Mustafa Paşa Han, is a sixteenth-century han in the Karagöz quarter, below the castle. The restored building holds a boutique hotel and shops, and the restaurant sets its tables in the central courtyard and under the stone vaults. It is open from breakfast through to late dinner.
Mezes and regional dishes
The meze list opens with the Hışvahan Beşlisi and a tasting plate, and continues with muhammara, olive salad with walnuts, yoghurt with firik (smoked green wheat), haydari with fresh herbs and Arab-style köfte with cacık. The regional dishes are the part to explore: yuvalama in yoghurt soup, analı kızlı — large stuffed and small plain bulgur dumplings cooked together in a sour broth — öcce, omaç and mıcırık aşı.
From the grill and the stone oven
Kebabs are cooked over charcoal: Develik Kebap, Sadrazam Kebap, Sarma Beyti, Alinazik on aubergine and garlic yoghurt, and küşleme made from lamb fillet. Lahmacun and Antep cheese börek come from the stone oven, and lamb chops, küşleme and kara kavurma are also served in a clay pot. For groups there are fixed sharing menus: Hışvahan Sofra for two or four people and Küşhane for six. Desserts include katmer, candied pumpkin and bastık.
“Book a courtyard table for dinner, order the Hışvahan Beşlisi and yuvalama to start, then share küşleme or Develik Kebap from the grill.”
LR Kitchen — field note